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Tips & Techniques


 
UNDERSTANDING HUMMINBIRD ELECTRONICS: (http://www.fishingbuddy.com/understanding_humminbird_electronics)
 

ATTENTION, COMING SOON!!:

  THE KUNTZ'Y RIG (system) a completely adjustable Snell (leader) from 1 ft to 100 ft if needed, (yes that’s correct). It is 99% snag less, which means you will normally lose only the hook.  Also it can be adjusted for use on crank baits.  It is not bulky.  When the Kuntz'y rig is used and you are bringing in a fish don't worry how long your leader is, just keep reeling.  Then just re-bait, adjust the length of the Snell, and continue fishing. 

  It even works for shore fisherman, with one exception, you are limited to how much line you can cast out. However, you can let line out (on the river) and your leader will get longer and go down stream, It works best with a floating hook on the river. 

  My System has taken me two years to fine tune.  I currently have a pat. pending, and am waiting to find some manufactures to make my parts.

  If you want to be one of the first to use it (when I get the supplies together) email me and in the subject line put in Kuntz'y rig, I will save your email and when the system kit is complete I will email all of you first.  If you are a bait and tackle outfit/retailer and are interested in being the first to carry the Kuntz'y rig let me know.  cgkuntz1@msn.com.   

 

Walleye fishing tips and hints, try a few of these the next time you are fishing for Walleye..... 

1. In late the spring, walleyes in many lakes and rivers make spawning runs up major tributaries. This occurs when the water rises and reaches 40 plus degree range.  Sometimes rapids or dams will concentrate these fish.

Try jigs on these spring-run fish. White, yellow, chartreuse and pink are good colors; the proper sizes can range from 1/8 to 1/2 ounce, depending on the current and depth. Both plain jigs with either a soft-plastic tail, minnow or pork rind. Cast the offering out and across or slightly upstream, let it sink near the bottom and reel back slowly and steadily with an occasional twitch or lift of the rod tip.

2. One of the best ways to catch spawning-run walleyes is with a floating/diving thin minnow plug rigged with extra weight. Tie the lure onto an 18-inch leader off of a three-way swivel with a few split shot trailing on a short 6-inch dropper leader fastened to the third eyelet. Cast and retrieve this offering slowly and steadily near or just off the bottom. If you hang up, you'll usually lose just the split shot and not your expensive lure.

3. Try a plain live minnow for spawning-run walleyes. Sometimes in cold water - a plain live minnow is the way to go. Hook a minnow through the lips from the bottom up on a size 1 to 4 hook and add a couple of split shot a foot or two up the line. Cast upstream and allow the bait to settle near the bottom.  Begin a slow reel stop pumping retrieve. Reel the rod and let it settle back down. Expect extra weight and not a hard strike on the line followed by the walleye feels the hook and then feed a little more line for a count to ten then set the hook.

4. Crankbaits are great for casting. You need to know of the different actions available. Lures with subtle action include Rapala Husky Jerks, Bombers and similar models. Moderate action  Rapala Shad Rap and Rebel Shad-Rap. 

Experiment with them on any given day. Watch for fish that follow your lure but don't strike. Or switch to a different action when your combing of a prime piece of water doesn't get results.

5. Normally, a slow, steady retrieve is best for casting crankbaits to walleyes. If that doesn't work, though, try moderate and even fast retrieves. Also, experiment with the stop-and-go approach: Reel a few turns on the handle and suddenly stop. Wait several seconds; reel again. This jerky action is sometimes the key to a heavy catch.

6. Don't ignore the shallows when fishing for walleyes. Fish up to 6 pounds or more can sometimes be found in water just a few feet deep, sometimes 2 feet or less. This is particularly likely in the spring as waters start to warm in backwater bays in lakes. Try areas with extended points, weed beds, sunken timber, rock piles and reefs.

7. If they are not in the shallows, go to deeper water. Primary and secondary points that jut out into deep water and also humps, underwater islands, rock bars and drop offs. Steep breaks or sudden depth changes near a channel are hotspots for walleyes in summer and fall. Use sonar to locate these prime holding spots.

8. Trolling:  Trolling is a great way to teach yourself about the water you're on even if it's the lake you fished last year. This method puts your bait down deep in the productive strike zone almost continuously, upping your odds of finding fish. Use a good topographic map and your depth finder as you troll to stay over good structure and, watch for  baitfish or game fish as well. Work the contour line or troll in a S pattern near the edge of points, reefs, drop offs or rip currents, I use my Humminbird 987c SI (www.humminbird.com) to locate and fish the contours. The 987c has the ability to set or highlight the depth you want to fish, for instance, say you want to keep the boat in 20 feet of water, just set the Humminbird 987c to 20 foot depth and stay on the edge of the the color change keeping the plug constantly at the level at which you think you may find fish or have been marking them.

9. If walleyes are in shallow they tend to be spooked, use a side-planer to take your crankbait close to shore. These planers also let you probe a wider area, with some lures running directly behind the boat and another crankbait off to the other side with the planers.

10. When you locate fish with your crankbait and have made a couple of runs through the area and you think the fish are gone then go back and try vertical-jigging. Position your boat directly over the structure or a spot where you've pinpointed game fish or baitfish on the sonar. Lower a jig to the depth that fish are holding, or slightly above that; then, begin pumping the rod tip up and down. Be sure to lower the rod tip just fast enough so that the lure falls freely, but no slack forms in the line. Strikes will often come on the drop, and if too much slack gets in the line, you won't be able to detect the subtle hits or set the hook quickly enough.

11. A variety of colors and sizes work well vertical-jigging. If strikes are slow in coming, try adding a pork-rind, a soft-plastic or a live bait such as a piece of a worm or live minnow.

12. On summer nights, walleyes often head to the shallows after sunset. In the early morning try these shallows and when you find them mark them on your GPS, When they finish feeding to to another area and keep search, but don't forget to go back too the area where you found them earlier, just go deeper until you find them again. When I go back I like to pull cranks over the area. A thin-minnow plug from 4 to 6 inches in length is best, but shallow-diving crankbaits can also produce well, I like to add a little weight in front of the crank to get it down deeper. You can also cast and retrieve these slowly and steadily over shallow points, reefs, humps, and the edges of islands.

13. For daytime summer walleye fishing, key in on these favored types of structure: reefs, primary and secondary points, humps, rock bars, flooded timber and depressions in the main lake. Also pay attention to inlets and outlets where the current can attract baitfish and walleyes.

14. Walleyes love fresh weeds beds, why, because they can hide in the vegetation and ambush minnows swimming nearby. Weed lines with a sharply-defined edge are the best of all. Position your boat parallel to the break and cast your lure so it runs right next to the vegetation. Fish will lie along this edge and lunge out to grab passing baitfish or your offering.

If the weeds lie several feet below the surface, you can also cast shallow-running crankbaits right over top and work them back so they run above the weeds, nicking the plants occasionally. Fish will surge up out and out to attack your crank bait.

15. Many factors figure into where you'll find walleyes. The presence of baitfish is one of them, but all things being equal, you'll do just as good over sandy, gravel or rock bottoms rather than muddy ones.

16. Drift-fishing with a live-bait rig and slip-sinker is one of the most consistent ways of all for catching walleyes. Try a jig, lindy with plane hook or floating hook, spinner blade even a slip bobber with split shot, hook and minnow, and even a jig. a way to suspend night crawlers off the bottom is to use a worm blower (syringe) to inject air into the bait.  .

Be sure to adjust the size of the weight according to the speed you're drifting at and the depth of the water. You want the bait to stay on or just above the bottom. When a fish grabs the offering, feed line for several seconds and set the hook. Try sunken islands, reefs, bars, points, weed bed edges and sharp drop offs for this productive fishing method.

17. Maintain precise boat control when drift-fishing. If you drift too fast, your bait may not appeal to the walleye, If winds are too strong, use a drift bag or two. I use my Minn Kota 80AP (www.minnkotamotors.com/advantage) electric motor to slow the drift this is done by pointing the bow of the boat into the wind turning on the autopilot and set the speed and then let the wind slowly push me down wind. Back-trolling may be required. This means running your motor with the boat pointed into the wind however the wind still may push you but the idea is you are moving slower, the idea being to slow your progress and allow more precise boat control. Walleyes generally want the bait just barely moving past them, and this offers the perfect way to present it in that slow and tempting manner.

18. Try slip-bobber rigs when walleyes are positioned near or on a reef, point, gravel bar or other structure. This consists of a bobber stopper, bobber, and split shot, hook or jig.  This way you can set the depth you want to fish. When walleyes are deeper than 5 or 6 feet, this is the only efficient way to cast and use a float. Try leeches, night crawlers and minnows. They all work great with slip-bobber riggings.

19. Choose your bait according to the season. Minnows are usually productive all year. In summer, go with night crawlers or leeches. In fall, minnows, especially large ones, are the best choice for attracting and catching hungry walleyes.

20. Color can sometimes be important in lure choice - and sometimes it's insignificant. To cover your bets, be sure to stock your favorite lures in a variety of hues. Always carry a few lures in bright fluorescent colors. Those are particularly good in murky water.

21. Don't be afraid of windy days for walleye fishing. Wind helps to move your boat along if you want to try drift-fishing. It also pushes baitfish into tight groups, enabling the walleyes to ambush them. Look for walleyes actually feeding out on windswept points, bars and reefs, and on the windward side of the lake. Pitch light jigs tipped with a minnow, leach, plastic to the windy shore line. 

22. Trolling speed is critical when going after walleyes. At times these fish will nail a fast-moving bait, but they usually want it creeping along. To adjust my speed I use a Troll Master (http://www.troll-masterpro.com/) . By adjusting the speed with a micro switch (Trollmaster maximum speed, about 65 to 70% of your motors capability) Adds a new dimension to trolling

23. Use your GPS (www.humminbird.com) or have a marker buoy handy when drift-fishing or trolling for walleyes. Chances are good that more fish are holding where you hooked that last one. Drop the buoy or mark your GPS immediately when you get a strike; then you can drift or troll through that same area again.

 
 
 

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PROFESSIONAL WALLEYE FISHERMAN

CHRIS KUNTZ
701-663-2783
MANDAN, ND